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Climate Pledge Friendly uses sustainability certifications to highlight products that support our commitment to help preserve the natural world. Time is fleeting. Learn more. Carbon Neutral Certified by SCS Global Services enables companies to demonstrate carbon neutrality for their products by reducing carbon emissions throughout their operations and offsetting their remaining carbon footprint through the purchase of carbon credits.

Learn more about this certification. Compass is a premium tube-style desktop boom arm with internal springs and built-in cable management, ideal for broadcast applications like game streaming, podcasting, voice-over, and more. With smooth, quiet operation and sophisticated on-camera looks, Compass is the perfect boom arm for mics weighing up to 2.

Tired of squeaky, flimsy scissor booms? We are too! Compass features a broadcast studio-grade all-tube design with internal springs and hidden-channel cable management. All friction-hinges are hand-tightening, no need for any tools, and a full degree rotation means you are covered for any application.

Effortless and quiet, Compass stays in place after being adjusted, and the robust C-clamp creates a solid connection with your desktop. Compass is your secret weapon for your Twitch game streams. Being nimble and sleek, Compass lets you put your mic where you want it, when you want it. Whether you adjust the boom to disappear on camera or feature it front and center with the mic, Compass fits perfectly into your game streaming or podcasting setup and will impress your audience.

Customer Reviews, including Product Star Ratings help customers to learn more about the product and decide whether it is the right product for them.

Instead, our system considers things like how recent a review is and if the reviewer bought the item on Amazon. It also analyzed reviews to verify trustworthiness. Skip to main content. Add to your order. Drops, spills and cracked screens due to normal use covered from day one. Malfunctions covered after the manufacturer’s warranty.

Most claims approved within minutes. We will send you an Amazon e-gift card for the purchase price of your covered product. In some cases, we will replace or repair it. Added to Cart. An error occurred when processing your request. Try again. Add No Thanks. Buy new:. Ships from: Amazon. Sold by: Amazon. You can return the item for any reason in new and unused condition: no shipping charges Learn more about free returns. How to return the item? Go to your orders and start the return Select the return method Ship it!

Or fastest delivery Monday, June Order within 20 hrs 56 mins. In Stock. Includes initial monthly payment and selected options. Initial payment breakdown. Shipping cost, delivery date, and order total including tax shown at checkout.

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Secure transaction. Your transaction is secure. We work hard to protect your security and privacy. Our payment security system encrypts your information during transmission. Ships from. Sold by. Shows what’s inside. Item often ships in manufacturer container to reduce packaging. To hide what’s inside, choose Ship in Amazon packaging at checkout. Return policy: Eligible for Return, Refund or Replacement within 30 days of receipt This item can be returned in its original condition for a full refund or replacement within 30 days of receipt.

Read full return policy. To access this option, go to Your Orders and choose Get product support. Blue Microphones Compass Include Add a Protection Plan:.

Add a gift receipt for easy returns. Save with Used – Like New. Sold by: Amazon Warehouse. Item will come in original packaging. See more. Order within 19 hrs 26 mins. Only 2 left in stock – order soon. Qty: 1 2 Qty: 1. Sold by Amazon Warehouse and Fulfilled by Amazon. Other Sellers on Amazon. Not added. Details Sold by: Audiotopia.

Details Sold by: Kellards. Only 1 left in stock – order soon. Have one to sell? Sell on Amazon. Image Unavailable Image not available for Color:.

Visit the Logitech for Creators Store. Amazon’s Choice highlights highly rated, well-priced products available to ship immediately. Climate Pledge Friendly. Enhance your purchase. Item Weight 2. About this item Premium All-Tube, internal spring design Hidden channel Cable management Hand-tightened friction-hinges for smooth, quiet operation Designed for Yeti and other professional broadcast mics Compatible with all standard shock mounts. Similar item to consider.

Register today. From the manufacturer. Blue Compass Premium Tube-Style Broadcast Boom Arm Compass is a premium tube-style desktop boom arm with internal springs and built-in cable management, ideal for broadcast applications like game streaming, podcasting, voice-over, and more.

Premium all-tube, internal spring design Hidden channel cable management Hand-tightened friction-hinges for smooth, quiet operation Designed for Yeti and other professional broadcast mics Compatible with all standard shockmounts. Studio-Grade Design Tired of squeaky, flimsy scissor booms?

Product information Item Weight 2. Customer Reviews 4. Click here to make a request to customer service. Would you like to tell us about a lower price? Customer reviews. How customer reviews and ratings work Customer Reviews, including Product Star Ratings help customers to learn more about the product and decide whether it is the right product for them. Learn more how customers reviews work on Amazon. Images in this review. Reviews with images. See all customer images.

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To hide what’s inside, choose Ship in Amazon packaging at checkout. Return policy: Eligible for Return, Refund or Replacement within 30 days of receipt This item can be returned in its original condition for a full refund or replacement within 30 days of receipt. Read full return policy. To access this option, go to Your Orders and choose Get product support. Blue Microphones Compass Include Add a Protection Plan:.

Add a gift receipt for easy returns. Save with Used – Like New. Sold by: Amazon Warehouse. Item will come in original packaging. See more. Order within 19 hrs 26 mins. Only 2 left in stock – order soon. Qty: 1 2 Qty: 1. Sold by Amazon Warehouse and Fulfilled by Amazon. Other Sellers on Amazon.

Not added. Details Sold by: Audiotopia. Details Sold by: Kellards. Only 1 left in stock – order soon. Have one to sell? Sell on Amazon. Image Unavailable Image not available for Color:. Visit the Logitech for Creators Store. Amazon’s Choice highlights highly rated, well-priced products available to ship immediately. Climate Pledge Friendly. Enhance your purchase. Item Weight 2. About this item Premium All-Tube, internal spring design Hidden channel Cable management Hand-tightened friction-hinges for smooth, quiet operation Designed for Yeti and other professional broadcast mics Compatible with all standard shock mounts.

Similar item to consider. Register today. From the manufacturer. Blue Compass Premium Tube-Style Broadcast Boom Arm Compass is a premium tube-style desktop boom arm with internal springs and built-in cable management, ideal for broadcast applications like game streaming, podcasting, voice-over, and more.

Premium all-tube, internal spring design Hidden channel cable management Hand-tightened friction-hinges for smooth, quiet operation Designed for Yeti and other professional broadcast mics Compatible with all standard shockmounts.

Studio-Grade Design Tired of squeaky, flimsy scissor booms? Product information Item Weight 2. Customer Reviews 4. Click here to make a request to customer service. Would you like to tell us about a lower price? Customer reviews. How customer reviews and ratings work Customer Reviews, including Product Star Ratings help customers to learn more about the product and decide whether it is the right product for them. Learn more how customers reviews work on Amazon.

Images in this review. Reviews with images. See all customer images. Top reviews Most recent Top reviews. Top reviews from the United States. There was a problem filtering reviews right now. Please try again later. Verified Purchase. If you read the little booklet that comes with it, it tells you there is a tension screw at the base of the arm that you can adjust to tighten the tension or loosen the tension of the spring.

Heavier mics might need a good twist to the right of that tension screw, while lighter mics will need a little twist to the left. What were they thinking? Did they test this mic boom with an anvil instead of a normal mic? I tightened it beyond what I thought was possible without breaking the damn thing, and the boom arm still extends and raises up.

I simply cannot crank the knobs down tight enough so that it simply holds the mic in place where I want it. It’s just absurd. I mean seriously, what were they thinking when they designed this thing. The usability is absolute garbage and my fingers are genuinely sore and throbbing after trying to simply balance this boom arm so that the mic stays where I want it. I am supremely disappointed. One other thing There is a locking nut that tightens against your mic to hold it in place, and once that is done, there’s no way to adjust it.

So, if your mic is slightly off kilter and needs to be realigned, you have to completely loosen it and try again. It requires trial and error to get the mic to be aligned straight up and down. And once you tighten it down, there no way to just reach up and adjust it without completely loosening it again. I mean, really? I can’t return this thing fast enough.

It’s absolute garbage and I cannot understand how anyone could give this a good review. The only thing positive about it is the looks. And I guess that is a reflection on our society more than it is the functionality and usefulness of the item. The media could not be loaded. I bought a Blue Yeti mic a few months ago and found it to be extremely powerful. If you use a Blue Yeti to record gameplay, you’re in for a big surprise.

It will pick up every sound, including banging on the keyboard and moving the mouse. It’s basically impossible to use it on your desk if you want quality recordings.

This boom arm is perfect, and it’s highly advisable to pair it with a shock mount made by the same company to achieve optimal results. I play a lot of shooters and the banging sounds went away after I purchased these items. As an audio producer, I spend more of my life than I’d care to admit in my studio. I have been wanting to replace my crappy spring arm boom with something like this for some time, but the price point was beyond my means Installation and adjustment to accommodate my mic were simple and painless.

It looks good, it’s very sturdy Shipping was much faster than expected too! It’s not even as good as a ten-dollar cantilever. And the quality of it. I moved to a new home and bought this arm because I think it looks clean. I used it to support my Neumann TLM and the arm worked great. This Blue arm is my worst experience. After installing the stand to my desk, I was trying to mount my mic on it and I immediately noticed that the arm could not support the weight of my mic.

It broke after 5 minutes. I don’t want to say much about its weird design, but I dropped it in the trash chute instead of requesting a return. Totally trash! For the same price, please buy PSA1 instead. Now the overall quality is a night and day difference between this and those cheap Chinese boom arms.

It swivels degrees and overall works great. However, the setup process was frustrating. I shouldn’t have to use a heavier mic just to use a boom arm.. See all reviews. Top reviews from other countries. When it was back in stock, I planned to get it immediately, but then saw this new Blue Compass Arm had been released. They were the same price and after watching some reviews, I decided to give this one a try instead. This stand is simply not easy to use.

It is stiff, the thumbscrews at the joints don’t do a good job of holding the arm in the position you want it, it is relatively short a problem that is amplified by its lack of flexibility and after a month of use it stopped being able to support the weight of my microphone an Audio Technica AT XLR.

I honestly had a better experience using my much cheaper Neewer Mic Arm. The only positives I can give this are that it feels really high quality and I like the clips it has to hold the microphone cable in place. It’s a really neat and stylish mic arm, but functionality is more important than aesthetics to me. I’d recommend to just get the RODE over this one since they are the same price.

Now it is absolutely not worth getting. Avoid this one! The construction of this boom arm is nice, similar in style to the Yellowtec Mika. It is designed to support the Blue microphone, which is large and heavy, and the tension of the arm is set accordingly. But if you mount a lighter microphone which is most other microphones! A tension screw in the base can adjust tension slightly, but it can’t be set low enough for a sturdy lighter microphone, like a Shure SM I’ve found the best solution is to add some weight to the microphone, by attaching a ball head for a camera tripod I used the Neewer Panoramic Ball head.

This, along with some adjustments to the tension screw in the base of the boom, should keep the microphone position stable. So, I took the model off the pile of old models — yes, it is a true pile of models; one of several around the house and started to do surgery. The first step was to mount the motor. I measured the diameter of the motor 0. This allowed a press-fit of the motor into the nose button and I could swap out the existing GG nose button for the now-electric nose button on the HiMax nose block.

I used the GG nose button because I love the how it makes thrust adjustment so simple. If it works for rubber power, it will work for electric power, too. Next was mounting of the circuit board onto the model. A little bit of thought had to go into this. I wanted it as far back in the model as practical the model was nose heavy.

Also, the charge socket had to be accessible and I wanted it to be on the bottom of the model. So I had to consider exactly how I was going to do this hold the model with my right hand where I would to launch, plug in the charger with my left, unplug and toss.

I cut a hole in the tissue, and made a sheet base to hold the circuit board. Then I ran the motor to the nose and glued the board in place with CA. Through some trial and error, I glued the noseblock in place and just had the GG button as the removable part for assembly temporarily removable — friction fit. Back inside and re-engineer the mount. It took some time, mistakes were made, but I now have a solid mount. Also the tiny prop that pulls the plane around. This is about 1.

After a couple of partial charge flights, I was able to get a climbing turn dialed in and managed to fly off my tiny field into the surrounding pine trees about 30 feet up.

After much persuading with my pole, the model came down, but suffered a good deal of strut damage. The LED shows it is charged, the charger is unplugged, but the prop is not turning! I now have an electric-powered Scale Free Flight model! The power unit weighs in at about 4. This was a 10 gram model so all-up weight is now With I will say this: for all of my worries, this was an easy project. Of course, except for the new thrust settings, the model was already trimmed.

The wing is the same dimensions as the Shaft, but has a different dihedral setup. This model was published in the August Air Age magazine. It is a very quick build with the longest part being the amount of time it takes for the rolled tube fuselage to dry one day. One curiosity was how to attach the single wheel landing gear.

Here you can see the original plan and one of the article photos of the prototype. Note the photo seems to show a double wire strut. I decided to 3D print a Landing Gear saddle.

It has a hole and a notch to accommodate the single wire. The test print worked very well; exactly as designed. I will also be providing the 3D printed LG saddle. I did move the pylon forward to better locate the CG properly and efficiently. The new, optional location is shown on the plan. Below is a short video of a test flight. I will be flying it as my 2-Bit model at the local Cloudbusters events this summer — until it flies away, of course!

You can find the product HERE. My recreation of the Comet Fokker D. I have had this kit on the drawing board list for several years and I finally bit the bullet and did it up this winter. I finished the plane in January, but weather prevented me from test flying it until today. This tissue template is available for free download on my Tissue Page.

One of the things that worried me was mounting the wings. I designed a jig to hold the wing in place while the struts were mounted. You can see it in the build photos below. This balsa is clear. Sheets with holes has been removed you will not receive holes. No effort will be made to select outside of the Density options.

Do not request C-grain — I do not receive C-grain, although you might receive a sheet with B-C grain in your selection. All is A- or B-grain. I prefer not to ship single sheets.

Therefore the single sheet price will be extremely high compared to multiple sheets. Find it HERE :. I thought about a Canberra, but everybody does a Canberra — and the Meteor has very similar proportions. This has been working well, I think. To increase strength in these laminations, I embed a carbon fiber strip in the center and cross-grain the three layers as much as practical.

These three things laminating, carbon fiber, cross-graining make for a light and stiff fuselage. One downside to this is the need to cover the wing with tissue. I am working on joining techniques to work on longer fuselages. The last thing — it is just easier to design and build a smaller model, especially for testing. That will take completely redesigning all the parts.

This is because tissue is rather translucent. When you cover sheet balsa with white tissue the resulting color is basically balsa-colored. You can paint the tissue, but this gets heavy. One way to improve the colors, but add virtually no weight, is to chalk the tissue.

I am not going to go into a ton of details on this, but just show you some of the results. The tissue on the Meteor was white tissue that was chalked prior to printing. I use Pan Pastel chalk white in this case and a folded paper towel on a hard surface wooden table. I fold up the paper towel to make a swab which I rub on the pan of chalk and then rub this into the BACK rough side of the tissue. I rub WITH the grain of the tissue. Still, this can and will get messy. After 30 years of flying Free Flight, I still have a good degree of uncertainty when it comes to making my models perform as I think they should.

Today, I will outline some of the things that I have done to make planes fly. Keep in mind, I still shake my head — and scratch my head — when I encounter a plane that is misbehaving. Today I am going to cover three models that I was flying at most recent Cloudbuster indoor contest just last week.

Maybe the best flight to date, although it was climbing dangerously high and getting close to the rafters. I wound up again and called for a time and I had NO success — the plane nosed up, stalled, fell off, and dove for the ground, cracking the propeller. As I fixed the propeller, I notice one of the tail struts was loose. Since it was stalling on launch, I gave it more down thrust, and added clay to the nose I should not have to do this — the model was flying well.

I wound up again and gave it a gentle toss and had the same experience. This was a very stable model last month and even during the initial test flight that day? I picked up the model and saw the wooden prop was broken in half — no more test flights that day.

Fixing it at home, I discovered what I think was the problem — and it was due to laziness or something even worse — careless disregard. While the prop was curing, I focused on that tail strut.

The h-stab and the fin have complementary notches and slide together and are then glued in place. Later the tails struts are glued in place. Here is where the carelessness comes into play:. I had not glued the h-stab to the fin. My post-crash analysis reveals that the h-stab would slide forward under a moderate sudden stop inertia.

Since the tail struts are a fixed length and glued solidly to the fin and the fuse, they would act as a pivot point — and force in a slight amount of negative incidence up elevator. This would cause a nose up on launch that my chunk of clay and twist of down thrust could not overcome.

Lesson 1 — always solidly fix your surfaces once you have a good-flying model. This cost me damage to a good-flying plane: I broke the propeller, cracked the trailing edge of one wing, and tore the tail strut loose. Do NOT continue flying it until you give it a full and critical examination. Last week, I devoted a good 30 minutes or so to getting this plane to fly I stopped when I ended up with a cracked longeron and broken glue joints all along the length of the fuselage.

This was not surprising considering how the plane tumbled when the flight was over. There was no landing with this plane — only crashes. A couple of times I was able to get the model well up in the air, seemingly flying well. Then the nose dropped. If the power came off under 10 feet, it simply looked like a steep dive into the ground. If the power came off at 20 feet, then the steep dive turned into a literal outside loop, with the model going beyond vertical before hitting the ground — hard.

Archie Adamisin and I have done analysis on the six models. These produce models with TVo values under 0. I have added sheet wood to my h-stab on the Spartan and will resume flight trimming on this in January.

Lesson 3 — always check your design before building. If I had not done the quick-and-dirty kit production and done my traditional draw-calculate-adjust-build-fly process, this would have been revealed. Imagine how many Comet Kids had similar frustrations and just smashed their models. This it much like throwing a dart.

Grasping in front of the CG results in much more consistent launches than grasping behind the CG. These little things are tricky.

I have found the Cessna especially tricky. I believe that Mike built his from the Comet plans while Winn and I built our Cessnas from my short kit.

My Miller Racer is the more stable of the two models that I have built, so I flew that. My score is the total of three flights plus 11 bonus points 10 for low wing, 1 for landing gear down — Dime Scale bonus points.

Now I am not going to profess to know how to make these fly, but I will tell you about this model. On my 28 second flight I put in about turns.

It flies right under power. The glide is not much of a glide; more like a gentle fall. The prop is not freewheeling, so it just kind of brakes and spins, brakes and spins. I think there is a little more left in the tank in this model.

I think that I will try a loop of 0. The down thrust pulls it down for a time but eventually it climbs. Along with pulling it down, the initial flight is much like a bumblebee — darting all over the place. I launch with the plane banked to the left, maybe 25 degrees or more. This is done to the torque roll ceases about the time the model is in level flight. I feel like I luck into a lot of success.

But, being that there is a lot of success, it could be argued that not all of it is luck. One thing I know has helped me immensely — that is the Gizmo Geezer adjustable nose button. I also use Gurney flaps, clay on the wing tip, and huffing and twisting the wing panels — anything to get my models closer to the perfect flights that Tom Hallman and Wally Farrell have. Build lighter than you think you can. Most of our models are over-built, structurally.

 
 

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